What Lies Beneath

Ever had that dream where you’re on a busy street, on your way to work, and you look down to find that you are only wearing underwear and nothing else? Don’t panic – you’re the height of fashion! Because this season, designers are putting underwear on the outside.

Still wearing that bodycon cocktail dress? How quaint. All the cool kids are swapping their demure LBDs for sheer nighties – lace, frills, ruffles – the more, the better. Models at John Galliano looked like they had stepped out of the 18^th century in peekaboo tulle dresses with corset panelling, which were accessorised with grey powdered hair and over-the-top make-up, beauty spot and all. At Rodarte the look was slightly more conservative, at least in comparison. The Mulleavy sisters worked wonders with chiffon and tulle as usual, and created spidery sheer dresses in black and navy, the panelled bodices of which became a second skin to sullen-faced models. If nipple exposure simply isn’t your thing, opt for layers of chiffon, like this Gold Hawk nightie-style smock, available at My Wardrobe. For something sexier, Roberto Cavalli is the man to go to. The shorter version of the floral silk gown on the Spring/Summer runway is available to buy at Net-a-Porter, and gives a nod to the outer-underwear trend, without baring too much.

The more conventional marriage between outerwear and underwear comes in the form of the corset. If you’re a fan, there was plenty on the Spring/Summer catwalks to satisfy your corsetry cravings. The standout piece at Bottega Veneta was the beautiful ivory bodice dress – perfect for a black tie event or even a registry office bride! Buy yours at Net-a-Porter now. The queen of corsetry, Vivienne Westwood, did not let us down, and cheekily revealed classic white corsets beneath architectural jackets and sporty cerise skirts. Sass & Bide do a great corset with ruched bodice and black and gold belt detailing, beautiful enough to wear for cocktails without friends thinking you’ve forgotten your blouse. Also check out Coco de Mer for their gilt-coloured bodice – far too fabulous to hide underneath clothes, as is Stella McCartney’s new lingerie collection. I say wear this sheer body under an unbuttoned white shirt for a bit of ooh la la! Extroverts will adore the new, big knickers, as seen at Alessandro dell’Acqua (La Perla do a black satin version), which offer just enough coverage to wear out over tights, a la Sienna.

If the idea of having your essential organs squeezed to death by a corset frightens you, you might prefer the comfier incarnation of the trend: pyjamas as outwear. A silky button-up blouse was paired with matching slouchy shorts at Stella McCartney – add heels and head to the office. I loved the silk, lemon-hued, dressing gown-style belted dress at Preen, and over at Alberta Ferretti models looked comfy in slouchy all-in-ones. Pick up a kimono-style dress for boudoir appeal. Issa and Westwood offer fabulous patterned versions, but my favourite is Alexander McQueen’s powder pink dip-dye kimono. The integrated shoulder pads and metal belt give it structure, and transform it from a sexy bath robe to a fabulous cocktail dress. Who wants to waste this on the bedroom?