Ever had that dream where you’re on a busy street, on your way to work, and you look down to find that you are only wearing underwear and nothing else? Don’t panic – you’re the height of fashion! Because this season, designers are putting underwear on the outside.

Still wearing that bodycon cocktail dress? How quaint. All the cool kids are swapping their demure LBDs for sheer nighties – lace, frills, ruffles – the more, the better. Models at John Galliano looked like they had stepped out of the 18^th century in peekaboo tulle dresses with corset panelling, which were accessorised with grey powdered hair and over-the-top make-up, beauty spot and all. At Rodarte the look was slightly more conservative, at least in comparison. The Mulleavy sisters worked wonders with chiffon and tulle as usual, and created spidery sheer dresses in black and navy, the panelled bodices of which became a second skin to sullen-faced models. If nipple exposure simply isn’t your thing, opt for layers of chiffon, like this Gold Hawk nightie-style smock, available at My Wardrobe. For something sexier, Roberto Cavalli is the man to go to. The shorter version of the floral silk gown on the Spring/Summer runway is available to buy at Net-a-Porter, and gives a nod to the outer-underwear trend, without baring too much.

The more conventional marriage between outerwear and underwear comes in the form of the corset. If you’re a fan, there was plenty on the Spring/Summer catwalks to satisfy your corsetry cravings. The standout piece at Bottega Veneta was the beautiful ivory bodice dress – perfect for a black tie event or even a registry office bride! Buy yours at Net-a-Porter now. The queen of corsetry, Vivienne Westwood, did not let us down, and cheekily revealed classic white corsets beneath architectural jackets and sporty cerise skirts. Sass & Bide do a great corset with ruched bodice and black and gold belt detailing, beautiful enough to wear for cocktails without friends thinking you’ve forgotten your blouse. Also check out Coco de Mer for their gilt-coloured bodice – far too fabulous to hide underneath clothes, as is Stella McCartney’s new lingerie collection. I say wear this sheer body under an unbuttoned white shirt for a bit of ooh la la! Extroverts will adore the new, big knickers, as seen at Alessandro dell’Acqua (La Perla do a black satin version), which offer just enough coverage to wear out over tights, a la Sienna.

If the idea of having your essential organs squeezed to death by a corset frightens you, you might prefer the comfier incarnation of the trend: pyjamas as outwear. A silky button-up blouse was paired with matching slouchy shorts at Stella McCartney – add heels and head to the office. I loved the silk, lemon-hued, dressing gown-style belted dress at Preen, and over at Alberta Ferretti models looked comfy in slouchy all-in-ones. Pick up a kimono-style dress for boudoir appeal. Issa and Westwood offer fabulous patterned versions, but my favourite is Alexander McQueen’s powder pink dip-dye kimono. The integrated shoulder pads and metal belt give it structure, and transform it from a sexy bath robe to a fabulous cocktail dress. Who wants to waste this on the bedroom?

Forget vampy lips and navy talons and swap your gothic colour palette for bubblegum hues, because this season, it’s all about brights. All the make-up giants are jumping on the candy-coloured bandwagon and unveiling new ranges of sugary palettes for your face and nails.  

It’s handbags at dawn as Chanel, OPI and Nails Inc. fight it out to bring you the most sumptuous selection of brights with which to paint your fingers and toes. The waiting list for Chanel’s Robertson Boulevard Collection is growing by the second, but I much prefer OPI’s new range, ‘Mod About Brights’ which includes egg yolk yellow, electric blue and pea green. The brand’s infamous ‘Russian Navy’ (competitor with Chanel’s ‘Blue Satin’) saw me through last season, and after many experiments, I conclude that OPI nail laquer is longer lasting, although I am a sucker for those double Cs. My current favourite however, has to be Hot Tropicals by Nails Inc. The collection includes fashion eds’ faves – the sold out tangerine orange Draycott Place (which looks gorgeous on tanned feet and hands with chunky gold jewellery), and Carnaby Street, a canary yellow shade – plus two other sizzling colours, and is a bargain, at only £20 for the four. Ciaté also does a great orange red, and their nail paint pots, which come wrapped in little bows, are perfect presents for friends. 

Make your peepers sparkle by dousing lids with neons, like this bright olive green shadow by MAC, the go-to for popping, block shades. Take notes from make-up artists at Zero Maria Cornejo, who painted models’ upper eyelids with traffic light orange, and kept the rest of the face natural. Unless you’re going to a fancy dress party, neon eyes and lips should be avoided – pick one and stick with it. Certain bright shades don’t work with all skin tones, so before splashing out on expensive make-up, experiment with Barry M – for the girl who loves MAC but doesn’t have a bulging purse. Good ol’ Barry is known for his magical dazzle dust, available in all the colours of the rainbow. For a subtler, day-time look, underline eyes with a zingy pencil. 

If you want to make real drama, opt for a shocking lipstick. Bottega Veneta’s brick-red is deliciously wearable, or you might prefer a kookier look: at Louis Vuitton model’s pouts were lilac, whilst John Galliano favoured a different shade on each lip. The fashion favourite was MAC’s ‘Morange’ lipstick, which was a hit at several of the Spring/Summer shows, but YSL’s peach lippie is a more delicate alternative, and looked startling with the fashion house’s much-loved mannish trousers and oversized blazers.

When the maxi dress reared its head last summer, the haters hoped it would have a one-season shelf-life. A year on, and maxigate is still upon us – I say, if you can’t beat it, wear it. A world away from the stiff polyester floor-length dresses of the 1970s, the maxi dress has reappeared on the Spring/Summer catwalks in a variety of gorgeous incarnations. Flower power reigned at Stella McCartney, whose collection showcased the most delicate of floral bouquets splashed on chiffon ensembles. I cooed over the jumpsuit, but an all-in-one isn’t for the faint at heart, and luckily, good old Stella offered a more conservative option in the form of a flowing maxi dress in the same print. The stand-out piece at the Roberto Cavalli show was undoubtedly the dream peach, silk floor-length gown decorated with prints of giant lilies, and accessorised with whimsical ‘cloud’ hair. If you like to make a statement with big prints, you’ll love Missoni’s strapless number, available at Net-a-Porter.

The maxi dress is by no means reserved for hippies-at-heart. Perhaps surprisingly, this season, Jil Sander-worshipping minimalists can get in on the act to. The trick is to choose muted colours, no-fuss detailing, and stay well away from anything remotely resembling a tent – the waist should be defined at all times. Follow by DKNY’s example, whose steel grey, scoop neck maxi dress with tricolour waist-cinching belt is a lesson in elegant simplicity. Vera Wang retained the fragility of the original, flowy maxi dress, but brought it up-to-date by reworking it in monochrome tones with a gently elasticated waist. Punk up this beige Thomas Wylde maxi dress with a black patent waist-cincher and biker boots.

If you always dreamed of being a Grecian goddess, now’s your chance. Drapes, folds, plaits and twists created drama on the Spring/Summer runways. Donatella Versace offered up a characteristically glamorous, baby blue gown, with multiway straps that were gathered at one shoulder, and Phillip Lim did what he does best – wearability and perfect styling – with his draped, taupe robe and flashes of gold accessories. For a more purse-palatable option, Freemans do a white maxi dress with plaited straps and gold belt for £49.

Summer balls are looming, but step away from that black prom dress. Break from the crowd and make an entrance in a flowing, floor-length gown, like this tangerine orange maxi one, by Collette Dinnigan, or this black and white dress by 3.1 Phillip Lim. Nothing beats a classic Missoni print, and this strapless dress is no exception. Copy the catwalk and pair with scraped back hair and barely there make-up to really make the print pop. Alternatively, go for all-out drama and work maroon lips with Lanvin’s diaphanous black gown.

It was, quite literally, a fashion jungle out there, as designers battled it out for the best in safari wear in the Spring/Summer shows. I gasped with delight as I saw sharp lines, neutral tones and utility detailing – if this doesn’t spell out ‘city summer’ to you, what does? The shirt dress reigned supreme at Donna Karan, where our favourite summer staple was reworked in a looser fabric, whilst designers at Aquascutum and Diane von Furstenberg remained loyal to the shirt dress’s matronly beginnings, showcasing boxy, ½ length sleeves and lots and lots of riveting, but the fashion houses agreed on one thing: a heavy-duty belt, cinching it all in. This double-breasted, off-the-shoulder version by Lela Rose gives an injection of forties glamour, but probably isn’t the best choice of clothing when fleeing a lion. If stiff lapels and breast pockets are all too Carry On for you, try this silk Calvin Klein number on for size, which gives a nod to the shirt dress without being overly restrictive. (more…)